You will read all sorts of numbers
thrown out there that should be in your portfolio or book. If you stick to the basics to start your journey you will be going the right way.
Here is a list of shots that I believe should become the
backbone of your book. Let's explore the fundamental images and then
what else we can include to support these images. In finishing, I
will give you some ideas to consider.
Start with the fundamental 7 and
constantly build and edit.
The fundamental shots are driven by the material that an Agent, Booker or Manager requires to add you to their sales and marketing campaign. We are looking to provide the minimum and not the maximum. Let's explore that for a moment. Imagine you are a very busy Agent. Every week you have a stream of model's books running across your desk. Now you have to ask yourself, who do you select? As a business person, you are looking for the product that you can get to market the quickest, with the least amount of effort. The reality is that the question is who can I quickly reject? Who ever you have not rejected, has to meet a standard of the quality. This is the second look. That standard is what you are willing to accept before placing the product in the shop window for your customers to see. Is quality therefore better then quantity? Absolutely.
Don't throw everything at the Agent! You need to become the Editor-in-Chief of this work. If you have a great shot that missed the cut because of a silly distraction then, shoot again. In the customers shoes, if you are not prepared to ensure your shots are 100% for yourself, then the work you do for me will not be 100%. Does that make sense? Make a list of things that need to be gone. Sounds overkill but it surprising what gets missed. You need to train yourself to look at the detail. I will give you some hints here of stuff I have seen to help. Number one is out in front by a long way, hair elastic on the wrist, overloaded electrical outlets, erroneous reflections, garbage can, toilet, dogs and cats, background public, negative signage, medications, dirty dishes, extension cords, alcohol, vapes and cigarettes, drug paraphernalia, cash money, televisions, computer screens.....remember you are looking for perfect.
An Agent's, time is precious so they
minimize tasks in the day that do not have a revenue stream in favour
for the tasks that have a direct income. Landing a booking for an
assignment will trump looking for a new talent every time. In the
Agent's shoes, are you more likely to skip over the book that has 20
or 30 images and pay more attention to a concise quality set of
images. Once again, quality not quantity.
Let us look at those set of images.
This list needs to become your list.
1. Clean headshot |
As it implies, a nice natural look with minimal cosmetics. No distractions of jewelry or hats, scarves or any props that are a distraction. Generally shot against a neutral backdrop. Majority of these images are in black and white to further remove any distraction from the viewer. |
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2. Full length shot |
This image should be in form fitting clothes that are simple solid colour. The objective here is to show proportions of your limbs and head to the size and shape of your body. Consider a tank top and jeans. It can be a colour that complements your skin tones or a black, white or navy. Just make sure that it is not a distracting colour. Think earth tones and pastels over disco and safety vest. Take more then one to your shoot so that you can evaluate the difference. Men need to leave the 'wife beater' vest out. Good rule for the guys is that we should not see arm pits. You might want to consider the vest top for a commercial style shot if you have great arm / chest proportions. |
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3. Swimsuit shot |
Although labelled swimsuit, this could also be underwear (notice that I did not put lingerie). I would suggest that you avoid work out underwear as they are generally constructed to hold everything tightly in place and can distort your real body lines. If you are under 16 or even look under 16 then you should avoid this shot altogether. Think on the yacht at Monaco classy not Spring Break party. Consider that this is a 'sexy for women' shot and not a 'sexy for men' shot. The lions share of work is modelling clothes, jewelry and accessories for women and you should be appealing to this woman's market. For the guys, boxer style swimmers and briefs not Speedo, posing pouch, budgie smuggler or thong. |
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4. Editorial look |
Editorial is about a style story of the fashion. This is where you need to focus on detail of clothes, accessories, makeup and hair together with location. This is your creative shot to show your body movement and your transformation into an expressive human. This is about versatility and your ability. |
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5. Commercial look |
The commercial look is really about print advertising. This is the acting job in still image. Think about this as about emotion and appropriate lifestyle look. Ideas are plentiful and you can play with this. Approach this as an advertising shoot. Perhaps this is your favourite coffee shop or you are working the flower shop. The key is appropriate emotion and I would keep it positive. This is all about selling and it is big business. Negative emotion is also good, but this you might want work on when you are expanding and updating your book. |
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6. Personality shot |
This can be a head and shoulders, or as I prefer a 3/4 length shot. This is your smiling and or laughing shot. Your hair and makeup should be good but not overly done or fussy. Dress in smart casual or a little fun but not overly distracting. You are looking to draw the viewer into wanting to know you more. To engage in conversation with you. This can be a little flirtatious but not overly sexual. You might like to think about this as your interview shot. How you would look and come across in an interview. |
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Options: Creative shots |
Save some room for some creative work that is really sharp and adds to your look. |
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7. Closing shot |
Sometimes thought of as just a colour headshot not as strict as shot 1 in our list. However, I disagree. This should be one of the most powerful images in your set. It is the one that you want them to remember when they close the cover. I would suggest that you approach this as a beauty shot. Make it an elegant style with graphic punch. |
Additional images to work on will depend on what kind of model you are going to be. For example, if you are interested in acting you might consider some shots that look like film stills or have that cinematic look or that you are on-set, stage or location. If you are suited for runway modelling then you will need to do some runway work and get your photographer to capture that event. It will all depend on where you are going.
Nudity is an issue for many companies. They do not want to post or distribute to their customers anything that might be remotely offensive. Make sure that everything that needs to be covered is concealed appropriately. The bare back with the 'arm bra' can be acceptable and was a staple vogue model shot. But remember, nothing is visible to the viewer. Guys, no 'babies arm' in the speedo, keep the power bulge for when you get the job.
Closing thoughts
As promised at the beginning, I said I would give you some closing thoughts to consider.
Target your audience.
Make sure you research the Agent(s) that you are looking to work with. All good agents have their top talents images on the web so you can see the commonality of look and style that appeals to them. Do not try to reinvent anything, just give them what they need.
Work on avoiding rejection.
We all are rejected all the time, models, photographers, stylists, MUA's it is all part of the game and you have to be tough. However consider this, if I give you a portfolio of 30 images, then I have given you over four times the opportunity to reject me then if I had give you 7. Perhaps those additional 20+ images are all beauty and editorial fashion but the bulk of the Agent's assignments are commercial and lifestyle. You have just given over the ammunition not to accept you and you have failed to target your audience.
Impact and Impression.
A well thought out, edited and constructed portfolio says a lot about you. A physical copy of your portfolio is very important. In the room, it makes a big statement and it slows the rejection down. Electronic versions can be flicked through in seconds and rejected. An Agent with a book on their desk will go through it. Also, do not dismiss comp cards as you should have something to leave behind and they are not that expensive.
I hope that this is helpful to you to get you thinking about what you are going to do.
Roy.
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