On the way from Kingman, Arizona, to Needles, California, on Historic Route 66, is the ghost town of Oatman. Once an abundant, bustling gold mining community, the town is now a pilgrimage for Route 66, ‘Roadies’. Leaving early from Kingman, I set out to enjoy the route on the Oakman Highway, up the Sitgreaves Pass into Oatman. I did think of the early departure as a good choice. Oatman is a western-themed tourist town. I don’t mean to say that as derogatory; it is just reality. On Saturdays, which it was, the place can get packed out with tourists. Parking can become a problem. There is a gunfight show on the main street, so it can get busy. As a tourist location, the area has been photographed to bits. Nothing I am going to do is going to be prize-winning photography. My objective was just to get some shots for my records and have a good look around. I am hopeful that the streets will be empty and the morning light will play off the wooden sidewalks. It is only approximately 30 miles (~48km) to get to Oatman, or around a 50-minute drive if you are not stopping. I knew that I needed to stop to make coffee on the roadside. It is my first trip to Oatman. I was looking forward to the drive, so let’s get going and see what it is all about.
The road away from Kingman heads out across the Sacramento Valley. The lowlands of the valley are susceptible to flash flooding. The first portion of the route is pretty straight forward until we get to Cool Springs Station. From here, the road will get tricky as we ascend the Black Mountains of Mohave County. The mountain is on the east flank of the Colorado River.
You cannot miss the Cool Springs Station at the beginning of the ascent. Originally, the station was built in the 1920s. It was a lifeboat for travellers when Route 66 was designated. Back in the day, it was a chance to check the car over and get a bite to eat and a drink before attempting the climb. The station has been a labour of love for Ned Leuchtner, who purchased the property and rebuilt it in the early 2000s. The business sells souvenirs, gifts, and crafts. It certainly shows the care that has gone into the rebuild. This is a wonderful photo opportunity. From here to Oatman, the road will get significantly more complicated.
Driving passages of the road along Route 66, I really try to imagine what the route would have been like back in the 1930s to be travelling to California. Envisage a fully loaded vehicle with belongings and family. You might have a 40-hp motor, no power steering or power brakes, no AC, Taylor Swift albums, or many of the comforts that we enjoy today. Supposedly, some travellers paid locals to drive their vehicles up the mountain for them. Some being tow assisted up the incline. We can be so much more confident today with our vehicles on this road. The road twists and turns, following the contours of the hills. It is a very rugged country. The terrain is exposed to all the elements. Blistering summer heat, rain, and high wind, as well as ice and snow in winter. The hairpin bends restrict the vehicles to being under 40’ in length. I recall two of the bends having a particularly tight radius. One of the major hazards on the road is the grey biological pylons in the form of Equus Asinus. That is donkeys or burros to you and me.
The donkeys are a famous part of Oatman. They will sometimes be standing on the road. Particularly blind corners seem to be a favourite spot to stand on the road. I think that this is a donkey inside joke to see who will swerve off the side of the mountain. I am sure they high five each other for the motorists that they catch out. The donkeys are a legacy of mining. As with other defunct mining communities, the donkeys that once worked the mines were let go to roam the hills. Out in the wilds, these current animals are the decedents of the mine donkeys. They wander into and around Oatman during the day. Getting feed from the tourists and visitors to the town. When the visitors leave, the donkeys head back out onto the slopes of the surrounding country for the night. Unwary visitors can forget that these guys will bite and kick if they feel the urge. I was also told that they are very partial to deconstructing vehicle side mirrors if the mood takes them. I do not know if this is true, but it was enough information to make me fold the mirrors in for some protection while parked in town.
I digress. Continuing on the road from the stop at Cool Springs, we come to Ed’s Camp around a mile ahead. The pile of materials that look like sheet metal and planks are the decaying remains of Ed’s. Built in 1919, the property was a Texaco gas station, trading post, with a couple of cabins for rent or a camping area. Signage and gas pumps are long gone. To the right is the Kactus Kafe. Because I am like a fly on; well, you know, when it comes to abandoned falling over structures, I stopped to get a shot like everyone else that passes by. Further up on Sitgreaves Pass, I grabbed a shot of the morning sun. From Ed’s, the road begins to show its challenge as the bends get sharper and the drop off gets higher. There are scenic vantage points to pull over on the road to get a glimpse of the surroundings. The area is dotted with remains of mining activity. There has been mining on and off over the decades.
The original mine claims date back to 1860; however, the town did not really come into existence until 1904. The Vivian Mining Company began operations. Two big strikes in the mines turned the place into a gold boomtown. At its peak in the 1930s, there would have been around 10,000 people working in the area. The town then had two banks, seven hotels, ten stores, and twenty saloons. There are probably just over 100 residents today. Canvas tents would have been the dominant form of accommodation. They named the tent city camp Vivian, and miners congregated to join in the dig. Reportedly, the mine yielded $3,000,000 between 1904 and 1907. In 1908, a big strike of gold worth around $13,000,000 was reported. For scale, we can think of this as approximately $200 million in today’s money. Anyway, the town changed its name to Oatman in 1909 in honour of Olive Oatman. The Oatman family tragedy, and the story of Olive Oatman, are sad tales of massacre, captivity, and finally freedom.
Mining operations were mainly shut down in 1924. The remaining mining activity was curtailed, and the mines were closed by the government in WWII years as other metals were needed at the time. There have been re-openings and closings of mining activity, which has been dependent on the market price of gold. The town continued on the business activity of passing trade from Route 66 travelers. In 1953, the town was bypassed, leaving it pretty much high and dry. With a recent resurgence in interest in discovering America, and Route 66 Roadies, the town has had a renaissance.
In town, I managed to snag the best parking spot in front of the Oatman Hotel. From there, I wandered up and down the main street. The hotel used to be called the Durlin. The name was changed back in the 1960s. Whether fact, myth, or legend. It is claimed that Clark Gable and Carole Lombard spent their honeymoon night here in the Durlin Hotel. I have seen other claims that they stayed at the Arizona Biltmore Hotel in Pheonix and that they were back in LA for a press conference so I do not know. I did enjoy wandering around without any crowds. The western feel is very authentic with a bit of modernization thrown in. The Oatman has a restaurant and bar that opens to serve breakfast. I headed in for my breakfast and coffee. The walls are adorned with dollar bills that folks have added their mark to and stapled to the walls. At the end of the restaurant is a small stage area for music. It has an old charm. Breakfast, and the service, were great.
Overall, I did enjoy the quirkiness of the town. The cons are that the place is small so it does not take that many visitors for it to become crowded. It is believed that dogs are not very safe here as the donkeys will have a go at them if they get close. They have posted signs regarding dogs and donkeys. If you are stressed by being around feral donkeys then that will be an issue. In the summer months it can get very hot. The town is built on a slope so you will need to go up hill to explore the town. If you have challenged mobility, then the town is not going to be friendly for you to get around. Ramps and general access for walking frames, wheel chairs etc. will be challenging. The town is a tourist trap, as are many along Route 66. Expect to be hustled. There is no accommodation in Oatman so you are going to be a day visitor. The drive down from Las Vegas makes Oatman a day trip. I think that it takes around 2-1/4 hours each way from Las Vegas.
It is now late morning. Cars and motorcycles are arriving from both directions. It is time for me to saddle up and hit the trail West.
Roy Boyce, Photographer
The opinions shared are mine based on my first-hand experience. Your experience could be the same or different. Take time to do your own research to see if it is right for you. I was not paid, endorsed or sponsored by anyone, including The Oatman Hotel, to visit this location. It was an independent choice and my visit was funded from my personal account. I have included a few links below to help you start your research, however, I have no affiliations with any of these organizations.
Information Links
Visit Arizona : https://www.visitarizona.com/
National Parks, Durlin Hotel : https://www.nps.gov/places/durlin-hotel.htm